My first time at the Tattoo and I still don't know quite what to make of it. Deathly dull in places, staggeringly moving in others, always impressive ... and I was absolutely frozen and shivering which didn't help. But getting ahead of myself ...
Earlier that afternoon I had met m'pal Krisztina and a gang of her pals and we'd spent a pleasant hour or so drinking in Greyfriars Bobby's pub. We then wandered back up to the Royal Mile and queued to get in.
For a good half-hour before the show the compère was chatting away over the PA, giving all sorts of interesting facts and figures and then started a (well-practiced) build up to the show by inviting various nationalities to cheer if they were present. I was amazed just how many people were there from all over the world. The biggest (by volume) I think was England, closely followed by the US, Japan, Australia, Ireland ... France was playfully booed (by me, in my head, but that's just tradition) ... not that many in from India or South America but still plenty from all over. South Africa, Canada, Germany ... all got good shouts. Us Scots gave a good cheer at our turn but I was amazed, yet again, just how cosmopolitan Edinburgh is at this time of year.
The massed pipes and bands of various British regiments were all present and correct (and looking splendid) and joined this year by, among others, the King's Guard of Norway, the New Zealand Army Band, the US Military in Europe Band, the Jordanian Army Band and performing troupe, a number of Scottish country dancers and the Lochiel Marching Drill Team.
Much of it was very traditional as you might expect, but some of it was a little surprising - there was something rather camp and endearing about the US Military band performing and singing Dolly Parton's "9 To 5" along with various soul and pop standards, definitely bringing the sass and 'tude to proceedings. The massed bands played a rather startling and incredibly moving tribute to David Bowie, playing "Life On Mars" while The Dame was projected on to the Castle. The Lochiel Marching Drill Team (world champions from New Zealand) were absolutely stunning in their skill and timing. The dance off between the Scottish Country dancing girls and the Marching Band team was a brilliant sight to see. An odd (to me) bit where we celebrated the Arab Revolt during WW1 which seemed to sit oddly with the rest but I suppose we're all friends now.
The traditional things were still rather amazing, and I don't mind admitting that any time the Highland dancers came on even I was stifling back a solitary stoic man-tear. The Crown and a Royal Carriage were paraded around the Esplanade by a mounted contingent from the Royal Cavalry reminding us it was Queenie's 90th birthday. And then there was the end with everyone out and playing/dancing ... genuinely impressive and moving stuff.
Finally the lone piper on the ramparts of the Castle, and if you'd managed to choke back the tears up until now that's when you lost it. Very moving.
They all gradually marched off and the crowd slowly dispersed. I was, and remain, a little confused as to what I made of it all. I will admit I was freezing throughout the whole thing - genuinely shivering and trying desperately to keep my ungloved hands, if not warm, at least not blocks of ice. Scotland in the middle of summer, huh? So that might have influenced my opinions ...
But walking away I knew I'd seen something deeply impressive and hugely moving. I just ... didn't ENJOY it. I'm glad I went and I'm glad I've done it. But I doubt I'll go back.
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